The Review
Zane Caplansky opened his deli in 2008 in a small College Street spot and built a reputation almost entirely on the quality of his smoked meat, which he cures and smokes in-house following a process closer to the original Montreal tradition than most Toronto delis attempt.
Montreal smoked meat is the brisket equivalent of pastrami — cured with similar spices (black pepper, coriander, garlic) but smoked for longer and served thicker-sliced. At Caplansky's, the meat arrives piled high on rye with mustard, deeply red-black at the edges, fatty and tender in the center. The difference between this and deli meat from a supermarket is categorical rather than merely one of degree.
The space has expanded since the early days but kept the Jewish deli vernacular intact: booth seating, deli cases, black-and-white photographs. The latkes are excellent. The poutine — smoked meat, gravy, cheese curds on fries — is a Toronto-Montreal collision worth having.
What to Order
Montreal smoked meat sandwich, medium fat, on rye with mustard. This is not negotiable for a first visit. Add the pickle plate.
Tips
Medium fat is the correct fat level — lean is too dry, fatty is excessive. The Friday night rush is real; go early or late. College Street is well-served by the streetcar.
Our Rating
★★★★☆
Price Range
$$