The Review
Parkway has been making po'boys since 1911, closed briefly, reopened after Katrina, and has been busier than ever since. It sits on Hagan Avenue in Mid-City, a converted corner store that smells of roast beef and warm bread the moment you step out of the car.
The roast beef po'boy is the one you want, and the version you want is 'debris' — which means the bits of beef that have fallen into the roasting pan drippings, collected and piled onto the sandwich. It is the most intensely savory thing served on bread in Louisiana, and that is a significant statement in a state that takes sandwich filling seriously.
The bread comes from Leidenheimer Baking Company, which has been making New Orleans French bread since 1896: a thin, shattering crust with a tender, almost airy interior that gives under your hands but holds the juice. 'Dressed' means shredded lettuce, tomato, pickles, and mayonnaise, the cold counterpoint to the hot, molten beef. It is perfect.
What to Order
Roast beef debris po'boy, dressed, half. The half is enormous. The whole is a commitment you'll either celebrate or regret. A Barq's root beer if they have it.
Tips
Cash preferred. The line at lunch on weekends is real — arrive by 11:30 or after 1:30. The back patio is quieter than the front counter. The fried shrimp po'boy is the second-best option.
Our Rating
★★★★★
Price Range
$