Fish Taco Stand ★★★★★ $

El Rey del Taco

Ensenada, Mexico · Est. 1958 · Baja fish taco

Mercado de Mariscos, Ensenada, Baja California

El Rey del Taco

Hours

Daily 8am–6pm (or until sold out)

Region

Latin America

The Review

The fish taco was invented in Ensenada, Baja California — a fact that the city's taco stands take seriously and collectively uphold. The Mercado de Mariscos fish market on the waterfront houses several competing stands, all making essentially the same thing, all making it correctly.

The Baja fish taco is: battered and fried white fish (usually halibut, sometimes rockfish), placed in two warm corn tortillas, dressed with shredded cabbage, pico de gallo, crema, and a lime-heavy green tomatillo salsa. The fish is fresh from the Pacific, purchased that morning. The batter is light enough to not smother it. The tortillas are pressed and warmed on a comal. Everything is assembled to order in under 30 seconds by a person who has made 10,000 of them.

This is the original. The 'Baja fish taco' served in San Diego, Los Angeles, and every coastal California restaurant is a memory of this. The memory is sometimes faithful. At the Mercado de Mariscos, you eat the thing itself.

What to Order

Fish tacos, two at a time, with everything. A cup of fresh clam broth (caldo de almejas) if they offer it. Street-side ceviche if you have appetite left.

Tips

The stands open early but the fish is freshest between 10am and noon. Baja California is easily reachable from San Diego — 2 hours with border crossing. The border wait returning is the only catch.

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Our Rating

★★★★★

Price Range

$