Philly Cheesesteak
● United StatesSouth Philly, 1930
The Philly Cheesesteak was invented in 1930 by Pat Olivieri, a hot dog vendor in South Philadelphia. According to legend, Pat decided to grill some beef from a nearby butcher and put it on an Italian roll. A passing cab driver smelled the meat, asked for one, and told Pat he should forget about hot dogs entirely.
Pat's stand evolved into Pat's King of Steaks, still operating at 9th Street and Passyunk Avenue. In the 1940s, a manager at Pat's named Joe Lorenza added provolone cheese to the sandwich, creating the cheesesteak as we know it.
The rivalry between Pat's and Geno's Steaks (opened in 1966, directly across the intersection) became one of the most famous food feuds in America. Every president, celebrity, and tourist visiting Philadelphia is photographed at one or both establishments.
Cheez Whiz, the divisive processed cheese option, was reportedly added in the 1950s when a Pat's employee started using it for speed. It stuck.
Philadelphia's Edible Identity
The cheesesteak is to Philadelphia what the baguette is to Paris: not just a food but a civic institution. Philadelphians have intense, deeply held opinions about where to get the best one, which cheese to use (Whiz, provolone, or American), and whether onions belong ("wit" or "witout").
The ordering ritual at Pat's and Geno's is itself a cultural performance. You're expected to order quickly and correctly: "Whiz wit" means Cheez Whiz with onions. Hesitate or ask questions, and you'll be sent to the back of the line.
Politicians visiting Philadelphia are essentially required to eat a cheesesteak publicly. John Kerry's 2004 request for Swiss cheese on his became a minor campaign controversy, seen as proof that he was out of touch with working-class voters.
The sandwich has spawned a global network of imitators, but Philadelphians maintain that a real cheesesteak requires Amoroso's rolls (baked locally) and can only be eaten in the city itself.
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The Real Philly Cheesesteak
Ingredients
- 1 lb ribeye steak, partially frozen then sliced paper-thin
- 1 long Italian hoagie roll (Amoroso's if you can get them)
- Cheese: Cheez Whiz, sliced provolone, or white American
- 1 onion, thinly sliced (optional, "wit" or "witout")
- Salt and pepper
- Vegetable oil or butter for the griddle
Method
- Heat a flat griddle or large cast-iron skillet to high heat
- If using onions, cook them first in a little oil until soft and translucent. Push to the side
- Spread the thin-sliced beef across the hot griddle. Season with salt and pepper
- As the meat cooks (about 2 minutes), use two spatulas to chop and break it into smaller pieces
- If using Whiz: warm it and spread on the roll. If using sliced cheese: lay it over the chopped meat on the griddle and let it melt
- Scoop the meat (and onions, if using) into the split roll with a spatula
- Eat immediately. No knife and fork, this is a hand-held sandwich
The key: the meat must be sliced extremely thin (a deli slicer helps), and the griddle must be ripping hot.